My Top 3 Ramen Spots In Tokyo
15th July 2019
Nothing is more comforting than a hot, steaming bowl of ramen. That thick, porky broth combined with springy noodles and tender pork is the ultimate warming food if you are cold, hungover or sick.
I don’t often eat ramen in Singapore, because it’s 30c and the best places are too far and too popular (who wants to leave the house and get in a queue?) so it was a TREAT to go to Tokyo leading into winter and get to satisfy my ramen cravings every single day.
Nearly every region in Japan has its own variation of ramen, though you’ll find lots of different types in the cities. I’ve been to Tokyo a few times before, so knew there were 3 ramen spots that I had to hit up when I went again. My favourite type of ramen soup is tonkotsu, a broth made from simmered pork marrow or pork bone that’s typically prepared by boiling the bones for about 8 to 12 hours or more. This long simmer is what draws all of the fat out of the bones, and what you see swimming around in your bowl. Mmmmm. Fat. Delicious.
Afuri, Harajuku
〒151-0051 Tokyo Shibuya City, Sendagaya
3 Chome−63−1 グランデフォレスタ原宿
In direct contrast to what I said above about my favourite type of ramen, Afuri is best known for its yuzu shio, a ramen with a clear chicken-based broth and citrusy tang. I have tried this and it is indeed wonderfully different, but on my last trip I tried the shoyu ramen, which is basically the same thing without the yuzu. They also have vegan ramen, so none of your friends will be left out on a visit.
There are 14 Afuri’s in Japan, stemming from the original one which opened in 2004 in Ebisu. Randomly, they also have 2 in Oregon and 1 in Portgual plus their brand new outlet in Singapore. This trip, I visited the one in Harajuku, because after I’d spent the morning at Meiji Shrine it was time to warm up! At any time of day you will likely have to queue to get in as (like many things in Tokyo) the place is only set up for about 20 customers at once. You order and pay at the small vending machine on the left and are asked to sit down on a fixed stool surrounding the open kitchen by a server, who takes your receipt. The price for the signature yuzu ramen is ¥1080 which is about S$13.60.
You won’t have to wait long and while you wait, you can watch the chefs ladling broth into bowls or charring pork on the barbecue. I normally slurp mine in less than 10 minutes. It’s very easy to eat because the soup is so light, and the noodles are very thin. You don’t feel as heavy as you’d feel after demolishing a bowl of tonkotsu ramen. There is something vaguely unsatisfying to me about the ramen here, I think the lack of ‘porky’ broth makes my brain think we’ve not actually eaten ramen!
Either way, I’ll be keen to check out Afuri in Singapore now it’s open (once the queues die down!)
Ippudo, Ginza
〒104-0061 Tokyo, Chuo City
Ginza 4 Chome−10−3 セントラルビル1F
TONKOSTU. PORKY BROTH. Sorry, that’s the first thing that jumped out at me when I looked at this photo again. Ippudo grew from small beginnings in Fukuoka in 1985 and now there are a few Ippudo outlets around the world, and its parent company is also listed on the Tokyo stock exchange (brb off to buy shares) proving the popularity of brilliant ramen is nothing to smirk at.
We ate at the Ginza branch this trip, with minimal queue as it was barely 11am. I recall being vaguely hungover, much like most of my mornings in Tokyo, which was excellent as there’s nothing better to cure a hangover than a piping bowl of ramen.
Unlike Afuri, we were sat instantly and given the menu. We wanted to order everything, but restrained ourselves. I settled on the ‘Akamaru Special’ which basically has everything you’d ever want; bamboo shoots, spring onions, seaweed, egg (VERY IMPORTANT), special blended miso paste, and of course, chashu for ¥1030 or about S$13. Ippudo also have pots of a spicy beansprout salad on each table, for you to take unlimited helpings of.
This was it. Exactly the type of ramen I love, but perhaps a bit TOO rich given my slightly delicate state. The noodles are also much thicker than Afuri, which given I am not supposed to eat wheat, meant I didn’t finish them. The pork is also leaner than Afuri and sliced more thinly, which I prefer. The egg yolk melts in your mouth as you bite into it. I have to say the egg was the best ‘ramen egg’ I’d had in Tokyo. We also ordered a side of gyoza which were excellent.
You can buy packets of Ippudo to cook yourself, which I now massively regret not buying. But Ippudo is also open in Singapore, I’ve yet to try it!
Ichiran, Shibuya
〒150-0041 Tokyo, Shibuya City, Jinnan
1 Chome−22−7 岩本ビルB1F
I have saved the best for last. Indeed, Ichiran has been touted as Tokyo’s most popular ramen. The chain restaurant began in Fukuoka, which is known for being the home of tonkotsu ramen - my favourite! The very first stall opened in 1960, and expanded in 1993 to its second location. Since then, they have opened over 60 restaurants in Japan and many in multiple cities abroad (none in Singapore though).
In Tokyo, I frequent the one in Shinjuku which is helpfully, 24 hours. The thing I love most about Ichiran is the customisation, at the vending machine where you order you can add as many toppings as you like. You can also choose noodle texture and flavour strength as they customise your actual bowl of ramen. The basic ramen is just ¥890 or S$11.20.
This isn’t a place you can come and have a civilised friendly meal at, because you sit in individual booths. The shutter is open until your food arrives, and you get a glimpse into the kitchen behind! I believe it’s so you focus on your noodles. No distractions. Just noods.
I just love the simplicity of Ichiran. The fact that even in what’s essentially a fast food restaurant you can customise your food is really quite amazing. It’s not just noodles and broth, it can be whatever you like, however you like. The broth is so good; satisfying, warm, milky and most importantly, porky. The chashu serving is a little small, but perfect.
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